The second time I faced the job of tensioner replacement, I didn't
remember how easy it was. And after picking up the new part and
seeing just a single stud, I worried that this might not be a simple
job. Thanks to burnbomber's
May 16, 2004 01:48 pm post to allpar forums for jolting
me back to reality. I recorded this info for the next time :-), and
to help anyone else who could use it.
Before buying a new tensioner, you might want to take a look at
whether Goodyear or Gates have a replacement belt with
ribbing on both sides, and the necessary replacement pulleys.
Goodyear has a "Problem Solver Tensioner Kit for the 3.0L engine, part
number 49204K. The Gates 38342K fits the same engine; search for it
on the Midway Auto
Supply website for a description.
These instructions are for a 1998 3.8 L engine. They should be
exactly the same for a 3.3 L engine, and probably close enough
for others. Use at your own risk.
- Symptoms
- squeal, could be intermittent, or
- belt pops off when wet
- Tools Required
- 15 mm box wrench
- socket wrench with 15 mm socket and at least a 6" extension;
either compact head wrench or universal joint
- Belt Removal
- Put 15 mm box wrench on bolt head in center of tensioner pulley.
- Rotate wrench clockwise. You should be able to do this with
one hand, it doesn't have to go very far.
- Slip the belt off of the idler pulley.
If the tensioner is frozen, either try breaking it loose (gently,
without breaking the bracket that it attaches to) or wetting the belt
with water to slip it off of the idler pulley.
- Tensioner Replacement
The tensioner is held on to the bracket with a single stud/nut.
Believe it or not, the nut can be reached from underneath.
- From underneath, align socket wrench with the underside of the
rear exhaust manifold and slide it to the right. With a little
luck and guidance, you'll be able to slip it over the nut that
holds the tensioner on.
Oh, the engine should be cold before doing this.
- Remove the nut. The washer is attached to it.
- From above, remove the tensioner.
- Make sure that the tensioner mounting surface is perfectly clean.
- I recommend putting a bit of anti-seize compound on the stud of
the new tensioner. And then wipe your finger over the mounting
surface on the tensioner to put the thinnest possible film on it,
to help avoid sticking.
- Slip the tensioner stud into the hole. Align the locater pin with
the corresponding hole in the bracket.
- Install the nut. I started it from above and then tightened it
with my fingers. Then finish tightening from underneath.
- Belt Installation
Belt installation is actually quite easy. Follow the underhood
sticker for routing. Grooved pulleys see the grooved side of the
belt, smooth pulleys see the smooth side. On the 1998 3.8 L engine,
the belt wraps over the tensioner from below, not from above, even
though it's much closer to the upper path of the belt.
- Slip belt over all of the pulleys except for the idler pulley.
- Put 15 mm box wrench on bolt head in center of tensioner pulley.
- Rotate wrench clockwise. You should be able to do this with
one hand, it doesn't have to go very far.
- Slip the belt on to the idler pulley.
- Remove wrench.
See Caravan Hose and Water Pump
Replacement (3.3/3.8 L) for tips hose and water pump
replacement.
Back to
David L. Levine's home page.
Last modified 09:00:13 CST 15 December 2006.